With your ultra-convivial, family-run osterias like Ciao Bella, stylish little pasta places (Trullo ... every night of the week for years to come. Senza Fondo doesn’t care about any of that.

This take on a classic Italian dish (Pasta alla Norma is named for Bellini’s opera, Norma) pairs golden fried aubergine with a simple tomato sauce. Delicious at any time of year. Heat half the ...