(For a brief explainer of who’s who in Syria’s kaleidoscopic civil war, see here.) If you know “Hama,” it could be because you love medieval wooden water wheels – the city boasts some of ...

HAMA, Syria — For more than four decades ... In the Kilaniya neighborhood, just across the river from the city’s famous water wheels, passersby stopped to listen as their neighbors began ...

Anti-government fighters pose Friday in one of Hama's water wheels, after they captured the central Syrian city a day earlier. (Bakr Al Kassem/AFP via Getty Images - image credit) Rebel forces ...